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Home DIY Part One: Wood + Pipe Shelving

April 16, 2019

  

Raise your hand if you’ve ever come home and just felt like you needed to let go and truly be yourself!

 

...

 

Oh, everybody?

 

Yep, that’s what we thought.

 

That’s why we are giving you some of our favorite home DIY projects to inspire you to make your home truly feel like yours! You can take these step-by-step directions and apply them directly to your space - or - you can just take these ideas as creative inspiration. Look around and consider all the ways you can make your home, your entryway, or even just your desk surface, a place that is special to you and feels uniquely yours!

 

 

> Part 1 - Media Wall with Wood + Pipe Shelving <

 

 

You ready?! Here’s what we’re after:

 

 

Photo by Nicole Christine @nicole.christine_

 

What You Need

 

Wood Materials

(5) 1x12s Premium Pine Boards

Metal Materials: All 1/2" Threaded

(8) Flanges (Black Steel & 1/2 inch)

(20) Iron Tee Fitting (Black Steel & 1/2 inch)

(26) 90 Degree Elbow (Black Steel & 1/2 inch)

(21) 6"  Threaded Pipes (Black Steel & 1/2 inch)

(8) 8"  Threaded Pipes (Black Steel & 1/2 inch)

(8) 10"  Threaded Pipes (Black Steel & 1/2 inch)

(8) 12"  Threaded Pipes (Black Steel & 1/2 inch)

(3) 24" Threaded Pipes (Black Steel & 1/2 inch)

Misc Materials

Black Sheetrock Screws

Wood Stain

White Cotton Rags

Painters Tape

Patience :)

A little coffee doesn’t hurt!

Tools

Miter(with slider) or Circular Saw

Palm Sander

Speed Square (if using a Circular Saw)

Drill

1" Spade/Paddle Bit

Homemade Jigs (for marking pipe holes)

 

 

*We know you’re excited, but be sure to read through the instructions, including the tips below, before diving in!

 

 

How To - Homemade Jigs

Corner Jig

To start, you’ll need a small piece of cardboard. Take a clean 90-degree corner of the cardboard and measure 1-¼” from each side, creating a crosshair intersection. Drill a small hole at the crosshairs. This jig will be used for finding the exact placement of all the corner holes on the boards

 

 

Center Jig

Take another piece of cardboard with a clean edge and measure

1-¼” from the edge. Drill a small hole here. This jig will be used for finding the placement of holes toward the center of each board.

 

 

How To - Prep

Reference elevation sketch for lengths and locations

 

 

1. Cut (3) 1x12s down to 9'. Sand the cut edges until smooth. These will be Boards #1, #3, and #5 from the elevation sketch.

         a. Using your corner jig, mark the two outside pipe holes, A and D from the drawing. You'll line up the corner of the wood with the corner of the jig and then drill into boards. Drill 2 additional holes at points B and C using your center jig. Point B will be 2' from the left edge of the board, and point C will be 6' from the left edge of the board. All measurements are on center. 

 

 

2. Cut (1) 1x12 down to 73 1/4" for Board #2. Sand cut edges till smooth. Use your corner jig to mark the 2 outside pipe holes and drill into boards. At point 2B, the board will simply rest on top of T-grip, so no hole is needed at this intersection. At point 3B, the board rests on top of elbow, and a hole will need to be drilled. These two elbows are connected by a 6" pipe, which is not connected to the wall. See below for close-up photos of these intersections!

 

 

3. Take the last 1x12 and cut it down into (2) 37 1/4" boards for the boards on the right side of the drawing, and (1) 25 1/4 for Board #4. Sand edges till smooth

         a. Use your corner jig to mark the two outside pipe holes and drill into boards.

 

 

Here is that elevation again for reference:

 

4. Once all the boards are sanded and wiped down with a damp cloth, begin staining. Using white cotton rags apply the stain. Apply on the top & bottom along with each side of every board. Set aside to dry completely. **Do not rush this process. Make sure the stain is fully dry before assembly!

 

5. … While you wait, break for a quick a happy dance because you are now ready to begin building the shelving unit!

 

**Grab a helper - two sets of hands are needed to install this unit! This install is built from the ground up and is only attached to the wall at the very end.

 

How To - Installation:

6. To keep things organized and efficient, set out the pipe fittings according to the drawing. Begin with twisting the (4) 8" pipes into (4) flanges.

 

 

7. Add Iron Tee fittings to each 8" pipe/flange combo. Then twist an 8" pipe into the perpendicular Tee Fitting creating a 90-degree angle to the floor. Add elbows to the ends of each 8" pipe at 90-degree facing up. This creates the resting spot for each board.

 

 

Photo by Nicole Christine @nicole.christine_

 

 

 

Here's that sketch once more:

 

8. Next, add 12" pipes to the first 3 combos you just created and add a 24" pipe onto flange D, the farthest hole to the right. You are now ready to add your first board. Take one 9’ board and place a combo in each hole of that board. The flange will be on the floor and the 12" pipes & 24" pipe will be inserted into the board facing up.

 

9. Place an Iron Tee on the 12" pipes & 24" pipe. Twist a 6" pipe into the perpendicular hole creating a 90-degree angle. Add elbows to the ends of the 6" pipes.

 

10. Twist 10" pipes into the Iron Tees at points A and C. Insert the 73 1/4" board over the pipes. Iron Tees to the top of the 10" pipes along with 6" pipes and elbows.

 

11. Twist a 24" pipe into point A, the first hole on the left and then twist 10" pipes into points C and D. Insert a 9' board over the pipes. Add Iron Tees, 6" pipes, and elbows. Twist a 24" pipe into point B, the second hole from the left and place an elbow (not an Iron Tee) underneath the board. Then twist a 6" pipe and another elbow creating the 90-degree angle. Place an Iron Tree at the top with a 6" pipe and elbow. This pipe will have to "float" for a little while as you are working to build the other layers.

 

12. Twist 12" pipes into points C and D. Insert (1) 37 1/4" board. Twist Iron Tees onto the 12" pipes, along with 6" pipes & elbows.

 

13. Twist 12" pipes into points C and D. Insert your second 37 1/4" board. Twist Iron Tees onto the 12" pipes, along with 6" pipes & elbows.

 

14. On the left, add 12" pipes to the 24" pipes with Iron Tees. Slip the 25 1/4" board on top. Place Iron Tees, 6" pipes, &  elbows.

 

15. At this point, you should have both sides fully constructed, and you’re ready to add the final upright pipes and 9' board!

 

16. Place 6" pipes into all 4 Iron Tees at the top. Insert the final 9' board. Twist elbows into all 4 pipes creating a 90-degree angle towards the wall.  Twist 10" pipes into the 90-degree elbows.

 

17. Twist on flanges to each 10" pipe. Using 4 screws per flange, screw the shelving unit to the wall.

 

Tips

1. Use a rag to apply the stain! I learned this lesson the hard way and brushed on the stain. I was very disappointed with pooling staining and drips on a few edges, but using a rag to apply the stain will give you an even distribution of color.

 

2. At the hardware store, you may find pipes in bins that have the barcode right on the pipe, while others are in bags with the barcode on the bag. When you go to the hardware store ONLY buy pipes that are in bags so that you can spend less time peeling stubborn labels and more time building! *Keep in mind that the 24" pipes are the exception since they don't come in bags.

 

3. Like we said, this install needs 2 sets of hands to build. It doesn't attach to the wall until the very end, and it would be a lot to juggle by yourself!

 

4. When buying the lumber, make sure to check that the boards are not warped, bowed, or bending. I bought a board that was slightly warped - I didn't think it was "that bad" when I purchased it, and now I regret it. Make sure your boards are as close to perfect as you can get!

 

5. I designed this shelving unit with the idea that one day I will mount a tv into the opening. If you would like to do the same, make sure to get one with an arm on it so it can pull away from the wall a titch and you can tilt it. Otherwise, your sight lines to the TV may be obstructed.

 

6. Placing painters tape on the top and bottom of the drill site will lessen your chances of the wood splintering.

 

 

 

Photo by Nicole Christine @nicole.christine_

 

Not only is this a huge statement piece, but it holds so many of the things I cherish. My hope is that just one of you ambitious go-getters can find the determination to tackle a project like this, or, at the very least, that a few of you do something else meaningful to make your home feel even more like yours. If you want more home DIY inspiration, check out Part 2 of this blog post in May!

 

 

Build Me Up, Buttercup!

- The Uncommon Team

 

 

 

 

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